Tokyo Fashion Week—Day 5

At this point in any fashion week schedule, when buyers and editors alike are beginning to feel the exhaustion of tightly packed personal calendars, ease is always warmly received.


The Ujoh show presented an irrefutably chic perspective on women’s wear, which appeared so very easy and wonderfully fresh for a Friday morning. Designs demonstrated a mature, considered aesthetic that was resolutely contemporary in as far as the silhouette was relaxed and in places boxy, even sporty, but didn’t compromise on traditional feminine ideals. Skirts were fluid, while triangular cut-out detailing beneath the bust offered a glimpse of sensuality. The color palette ranged through soft blues, greens and a peach hue, and complemented by the sharpness of pinstripes, even florals appeared updated —a graphic reinterpretation of ’70s wallpapers, let’s say. It was just darling.


Prints reigned at Né-net, which showcased a certain childlike charm. Oversized, exaggerated graphics played off cartoonish illustrations and bright primary colors, as well as quirky references to national heritage and Japanese popular culture. All was remarkably sophisticated, however. The youthful models were like the coolest, best-dressed celebrity children; so cool, in fact, that adults would want to emulate their style, abundant with an air of freedom and innocence that doubtless sparked a sense of nostalgia among most of the audience.


The Factotum show was somewhat of a slow start, but soon garnered interest, showcasing colorful, abstract prints and iridescent jacquards in simple, sporty shapes. The real moment came with the finale procession of barefoot models sporting slogan tees, which read “HOPE AND DESPAIR”, “LIGHTNESS AND DARKNESS”, “GOODNESS & BADNESS”, and other such phrases that seemed to speak to a modern day hippy’s view on the inevitable ying and yang nature of life.


The Sretsis runway came alive with energetic explosions of loud, playful designs. Unfortunately, this bordered on costumery at times. There was something of an eccentric musician about much of the collection, confirmed when the show culminated in a musical performance that transformed the event into more of a rock gig than fashion show.


Discovered’s SS15 proposal was appealing in its sleek, graphic shapes that rendered a largely utilitarian vision. Colors were urban and large pockets were even reminiscent of military uniform—something equally tangible in the DNA of the Onitsuka Tiger x ANDREA POMPILIO show.


The collaborative efforts were more fash this season: there were sports basics, of course, but—at least in the women’s wear designs—there was a distinguishing elegance. Interesting lines and shapes were created by graphic appliqué detailing. One might want to read these features as modern interpretations of tribal marking. The ostentatious headwear would certainly support that argument. A tribe at war, perhaps. There was an army-like precision, and those embroidered patches recalled soldiers’ uniforms. The show closed with a mass of models lining up in squadronal order, before Pompilio proudly took his bow.

text by: Ben Sharp

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