Tokyo Fashion Week—Day 4

The fourth day of Tokyo’s foray into SS15 began with DRESSEDUNDRESSED: a minimalist’s dream.

dressed

Takeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato excel at clean, understated designs that boast interest in their shape. Today, this allowed two main ideas to come through, both hinged entirely on the designers’ immaculate cutting. Oversized, seemingly simplified sartorial staples were juxtaposed with exquisite tailoring that demonstrated a keener attention to fit and structure. Details were no more complicated than trailing belt ties, drawstrings, and sharp slashes to the knees that instilled a dose of severity to slouchy, wide-leg pants. This season’s hues ranged from sterile whites to richer beiges, before moving to navy and black. Subtly adorning the collection’s purity were a handful of painted faces on shirts and an intriguing use of what looked to be fishnet. The brand has always had a sense of duality to its collections, which has, for the most part, rendered an androgynous aesthetic. It was interesting here to see which silhouettes were wholly unisex—the more formless pieces—and the balance that more formal classics (which as a rule are, of course, tailored more closely to the body) were able to harness.

cote mer

The Cote Mer show was, in contrast, far less minimalist. Many garments boasted a patchwork design, which at times (although certainly not always) worked very well. There was something quite cool in the humility of clothing that is far from polished. The idea was best realized, for example, where edges were slightly frayed and threads left unkempt.

corazon

Equally more colorful than this morning’s DRESSEDUNDRESSED opening, corazon del alma showcased some rather lovely, delicate pieces. There was a lightness in chiffons and drapery, and it was a shame that some of the colors were somewhat unsavory, because the floaty femininity was, and always is, wholly charming on the runway.

in process

Overtly spring/summer themes continued with In-Process by Hall Ohara. Here, colors and prints were soft and warm. The flower power was arguably on overdrive, but the ink splatters were delightful adornments to easy silhouettes.

99

The evening’s 99%is- show demonstrated designer Bajawoo’s creative maturity, which had perhaps been lacking in previous seasons. Everything felt a little more thought out this time around. To begin with, this was the largest collection that the Korean native had ever shown; the larger scope he allowed himself led to better developed ideas. The first few looks were in line with the brand’s famed punk aesthetic. The updates for SS15 boasted intricate finishes and fastenings, but felt fresh in a charming cerulean blue color. As the show continued, it was clear that this season’s offering was to exhibit a lighter, more playful side to Bajawoo. Along with the warmer colours, palm tree prints served to soften the brand’s signature hard edge. Most notable, however, were the magnificent headpieces, masks and even leis that appeared delicate and dainty from afar, but which were in fact meticulously crafted, structured accessories.

KBF

The night drew to a close with KBF and a return to the clean freshness of the morning’s opening. Hues were muted, cuts relaxed, and textiles novel. The instantly memorable pieces included a couple of textural knitwear designs, and accessories and garments crafted from see-through plastic. Yet the real impression was made by those looks that played with the proportions of the body: trousers that boasted super high waists and cropped lengths, paired with tops that revealed the midriff and demonstrated a laudable attention to the female form.

text by: Ben Sharp










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