PFW // DAY 1 // The Ascension of Anthony Vacarello
September 27, 2012
The Hyères 2006 laureate is a fashion newbie no more. Now onto his fourth runway show in Paris, the Belgian designer has more than established his It status.
Anthony Vacarello came up with a smart, well thought-out collection. True, a few non-commercial pieces were still present on the concrete catwalk. However, this time, you could actually imagine these clothes worn by women other than Karlie or Anja. Watching the silhouettes pass by, it was easy to make a mix and match of the different items in your head. A smart move, which will probably make the buyers very enthusiastic.
The hemlines were still dangerously high on many of the looks. His take on the wrap skirt, crossed high on the upper thighs, should make more than one man happy. This said, it illustrated perfectly the idea of his SS13 woman as a modern-day naiad wandering out of the ocean; clothes ruffled up and body hugging. Following the Black and White trend already very present this season, he punctuated his collection with lame fabrics, giving the collection a touch of modern glamour. The textures came in deep matte gold and beetle green iridescent jacquard with a feline print; hints of light he already used last season to brighten up his monochrome color palette.
In the continuity of his previous collections, the clothes revolved around clever deconstruction work and asymmetric play, the draping always holding on by a thread. Boxy shirts paired with masculine pants came with sportswear details such as metal eyelets and fastenings. Navel baring cropped tops seem to be inevitable this season. In Vacarello’s vision, they came asymmetric, bodycon and mixed up with an oversize pair of trousers. A little less femme fatale, a little more working girl, the collection appeared more mature and ready to wear. Anthony Vacarello managed to pair NY’s smart commercial edge with Paris’ sophistication and charisma.
The designer closed the show with his muse Anja, clad in one of his trademark showstopper numbers. An asymmetric, floor length sheath gown in flowing black silk with, of course, the infamous side slit high above the hipbone for the most dramatic effect.